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Kanazawa, Ishikawa

One Circle Around Kanazawa Castle

One circle around Kanazawa Castle, each stop taken at the hour that suits it — starting inside a garden while the ticket booths are still shut, ending on the lawn of a museum that stays lit long after its galleries close.

4 stops · one day

The route

  • 01

    Ishikawa · Kanazawa · From Kanazawa Station · ~20 min · Better early

    Kenrokuen Garden

    Japan's most famous strolling garden, and it is free for the two hours before it opens.

    What to look for

    • The fountain — a jet of water rising in the western part of the garden, below the level of the pond above it
    • Kotoji lantern — the small stone lantern standing on two unequal legs at the north edge of the pond
    • Kasumigaike — the garden's largest pond, with the main paths circling it and the teahouses set back from the water

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  • 02

    Ishikawa · Kanazawa Higashiyama · From Kanazawa Station · ~20 min · Better early

    Higashi Chaya District

    A whole teahouse town, kept as one piece of street.

    What to look for

    • Asanogawa Ohashi Bridge — the balustraded bridge from the castle side onto the east bank
    • Kanazawa Yasue Gold-Leaf Museum — a city museum of gold-leaf craft, standing just short of the teahouse lane
    • The main teahouse lane — matched two-storey fronts with kimusuko lattice, the stretch every photograph is taken on

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  • 03

    Ishikawa · Kanazawa · From Kanazawa Station · ~5 min · Better early

    Omicho Market

    Kanazawa's covered market — go on a weekday morning, before the aisles fill.

    What to look for

    • The Musashigatsuji entrance — the corner opening in front of the bus stop, where the covered lanes begin
    • The fresh-fish lanes — crab, shrimp and Sea of Japan fish sold over ice, straight across the counter
    • Omicho Ichiba-kan — the newer block on the corner, shops at street level and eating places above

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  • 04

    Ishikawa · Kanazawa Hirosaka · From Kanazawa Station · ~15 min · Better early

    21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art

    A museum with a free half that stays open until late.

    What to look for

    • The lawn — open grass around the building, holding outdoor commissions and a view of the white gallery boxes
    • Colour Activity House — Olafur Eliasson's spiral of coloured glass walls, where the colours mix as you walk between them
    • The glass outer wall — a continuous curved pane that lets the corridor and the grass read as one space

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